Synthetic mica Vs Natural mica | Micamoma.co.uk
Synthetic mica Vs Natural mica | Micamoma.co.uk
Mica powders popularity is increasing year after year. Its uses range from heavy engineering , cosmetics and food.
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In cosmetics mica powder is loved for the shine, lustre and versatility it gives to lip, face and nail products. But the use of mica powder has sometimes been controversial. In this post we try to pick apart the cosmetic industries love hate relationship with this sought after shiny rock. Natural mica is the name given to mined mica rock mineral from the ground and usually is made up of four types: The types of mica that are most useful for industry and beauty sectors are the muscovite and phlogopite varieties. Sericite is a form of mica derived from muscovite mineral rock. It can have a grey, white or yellow appearance. Sericite is extremely versatile and is useful in: The sericite mica commonly used in make-up bases like foundation is a fine matte white powder. And even though sericite, has a silky texture. Silicon is often added to it to help the foundation spread evenly on the skin. Huge amounts of natural mica are mined each year with an expected worldwide value of $727 million by 2025. According to World Bank some 5,239,230 kg came from the United States alone. With China being the largest exporter at 152,874,000 kg. With India a close second at 108,098,000 kg These figures don’t tell the whole story as many of these mica producers are also major mica importers. Madagascar and Finland are also significant players in mica powder production. With the majority of Madagascar’s mica being exported to Europe, United States and the far east. With Finland’s mica exported to Japan, United States and Germany. According to sources 18% of mica powder mined is used in cosmetic products worldwide. The muscovite and phlogopite mineral rocks that we use in our daily lives are initially processed into sheet mica and flake mica. Flake mica is most common type of mined mica. It is made from smaller pieces of mica rock. It is also known as scrap mica. In order to prepare the flake mica for use in cosmetics. The wet grinding method is used to achieve the perfect size and consistency we need for our mica powder. Wet grinding is when the flake mica is ground down using water and its impurities removed. After this process the resulting mica is called wet ground mica. Grinding the mica using the wet ground method means that it is possible to make mica powder that has a really fine grade. This enhances the finished micas’ pearlescent and reflective qualities. The mica powder is then coated with oxides, lakes and ultramarine pigments to add colour. Safe to say, most of the mica used in our bath bombs, soaps, nail polish, candles, lipsticks , eye-shadows and paints are made from wet ground mica. On the other hand, sheet mica are blocks of rock that are cut into flat uniform pieces. This property of the rock, to be easily cut into flat pieces, is called its cleavage. Sheet mica is used mostly in heavy industry and in everyday electrical and electronic appliances such as toasters, light fittings and hairdryers. The reason sheet mica is valued is because it is has excellent heat insulation properties and does not conduct electricity. Because natural mica powder is a produced from mineral muscovite and phlogopite rock they are generally not biodegradable. But the pigments or lakes used to add colour will break down over time if they are organic. Over recent years, the ethical issues of natural mica have been centered on how mica powder is mined. With most of the concern being on the use of child workers in artisanal mines located in India and Madagascar. With this in mind, some brands like Lush have decided to boycott natural mica altogether. Opting to use synthetic mica instead. With other big names such as L’Oreal and Clarins joining the Responsible Mica Initiative (RMI). Members of the RMI hope to make sure that the mica that they use is traceable throughout the supply chain and child labour free. However, because of the difficulties concerning the mica supply chains. And the reality that many families rely on the income from mica mining. Some pressure groups feel that these initiatives do not do enough to end the problem. And help the children and adults that are most affected. Synthetic mica is artificial and lab created. It has some of the characteristics of natural mica. Such as transparency and resistance to heat. Most of the synthetic mica used in cosmetics today is manufactured in China and Japan. Synthetic mica makes up around 10% of global supply of mica powders. A smaller portion of that 10% is used in paint products. Synthetic mica is a man made compound. It is also know as fluorphlogopite, synthetic fluorine mica, synthetic mica crystal or simply, artificial mica. It is made by heating chemicals together such as potassium carbonate, potassium fluosilicate, quartz sand and fused magnesite. The compound is then left to cool and form crystals. The resulting crystals are chemically similar to natural phlogopite mica. The main chemical difference between synthetic mica and natural phlogopite mica is that the hydroxide ion (OH) found in the natural mica phlogopite is replaced by fluorine (F). Thus we get the name fluorphlogopite. Which forms the base of all synthetic mica powders. The synthetic mica resembles natural mica and has a smoother texture and is more transparent than natural mica. This can mean that when it is coloured with oxides and lakes. It can seem brighter than natural mica powder. You can usually find that fluorphlogopite is available in a variety of sizes. From larger mica flakes with a size of 100-900 micrometres(µm). To smaller mineral mica powders of 5-25 micrometres( µm). Making it versatile in cosmetics such as eye-makeup, nail polish, soap and paints. Biodegradability essentially means that something can be broken down naturally. Ideally being consumed by bacteria and fungi. The substance decays and is absorbed into surrounding earth over time without any special treatment or human intervention. Synthetic mica like natural mica is not biodegradable and does not breakdown naturally over time. But for some, biodegradability is not a major cause for concern. Since synthetic micas, like natural micas, are made from compounds and chemicals which can be found naturally in the ground anyway. The main selling point for fluorphlogopite based micas is that using them will reduce the need and dependency on natural micas in the future. Also, for a number of years, anti slavery organisations have voiced concerns about artisanal and small-scale mining in third world countries . With their ongoing incidences of alleged child and worker abuse. With this in mind campaigners have been encouraged to step up their promotion of synthetic mica. For them, using synthetic mica will take the ethical uncertainty out of the use of natural mica in cosmetics. So consumers can know for sure. Where the mica they use in their everyday cosmetics and bath & body products comes from. A report commissioned by BASF colours & effects. Challenged the widely accepted idea the synthetic mica is the obvious eco-friendly and ethical alternative to natural mica. It cited that larger amounts of energy are used in the production of synthetic mica compared to natural mica. The report also said that synthetic mica has ‘6.5x the environmental impact of mining and processing natural mica’. It focused on the fact that most of the synthetic mica that is used today is made in Japan and China. And suggested that the carbon footprint of consumers in the United States would increase, due to the larger transportation and production costs of synthetic mica The report implied that because most of BASF’s natural mica mining is done locally in Peekskill and North Charleston in Georgia. Environmental costs of production and transportation across the North America. Would be less compared to importing synthetic mica. Admittedly, many people would see the findings in the report as biased. And more relevant to the natural mica powder industry in the United States. And a sign of increasing United States trade protectionism. In relation to foreign imports, especially from China and the far east. However, it does give us an alternate take when deciding what type of mica powder pigments to buy and use. And the ethical and environmental fallout of doing so. Versatile: can be used in cosmetics electronic and heavy industry Huge deposits worldwide Cheaper to buy for the creators and customers Can contain heavy metal & impurities. Potential ethical issues. More colours options available for creators. Not biodegradable Pearlescent and transparent.Near white. Free of heavy and metal impurities. Expensive to make. Cost is more for the customer and companies. Takes longer to make and uses more energy.So what are the different types of natural mica ?
What is Sericite mica?
Where does Natural mica powder it come from?
Natural Cosmetic Mica Powder – How is it made?
Flake mica and sheet mica – what are they ?
Is Natural mica powder biodegradable or ethical ?
Synthetic mica Powder – What is it?
Where does Synthetic mica powder come from ?
Synthetic mica Powder – How is it made ?
Is synthetic mica biodegradable or ethical ?
Synthetic mica powders – An alternative view
Conclusion
Synthetic Mica vs Natural Mica – Pros and Cons
Natural Mica
Synthetic Mica
How are carbide buttons used in mining?
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No concerns about child labour. May have environmental issues.
Not biodegradable
Ultimately the decision to use natural or synthetic mica will be yours… the creator or the buyer.
When choosing what goes into their favourite lip balm, nail polish, eye-shadow or soap. There many issues that need to be considered before deciding what you and your customer base feel is important.
God willing this article has gone some way to make that decision easier.
What Is Mica Powder? Ethical and Sustainability Concerns
If you’ve ever gravitated towards a product that promised to make your skin sparkle or glow, chances are it had mica powder in it.
In fact, even if you’ve never been much of a makeup buff, you’ve probably still come in contact with the ingredient via your shampoo or shaving cream. It’s probably in your foundation, as well as your toaster and car paint.
In recent years, mica has become controversial because child labor may be used in its mining process. Although some beauty companies are working towards sourcing the ingredient ethically, finding alternatives isn’t so easy for those looking to avoid it altogether.
Beauty Products That Contain Mica
Mica is used to thicken and add shimmer to the following beauty products:
- Bronzer and highlighter
- Lipstick and lip gloss
- Eye shadow and mascara
- Concealer, foundation, makeup primer, and facial serum
- Blush and facial powder
- Nail polish
- Daily use SPF
- Men’s shaving cream and baby shampoo
- Toothpaste and deodorant
- BB cream and CC cream
- Body wash and oil
What Is Mica Powder?
Mica is the name of a group of minerals that come from sheet silicate. There are 37 types and can be found in granite, slate, phyllite, and shale.
Mica powder is lightweight and flexible. It’s resistant to heat, which makes it a favorite material for the electronic industry. However, it’s the pearly luster of its flakes that make it popular in cosmetics and skin care products.
It’s primarily used as a colorant but is also a mild abrasive, as well as a thickening and smoothing agent. Mica is naturally reflective and the reason why highlighter “lights” up brow bones and eyeshadow sparkles.
Beauty chemists combine it with other ingredients to create different effects. Smaller bits can be added to powders to create a smoother but illuminating finish.
If you check out the ingredient list of your lipstick or body bronzer, you may find it listed as:
- C177019
- Micagroup Minerals
- Pigment White 20
- Sericite
- Sericite GMS-ZC
- Sericite GMS-C
- Sericite MK-A
- Sericite MK-B
- Golden Mica
- Muscovite Mica
Synthetic Mica vs. Natural Mica
While natural mica powder comes from rocks, synthetic mica is made in a lab. It’s also known as synthetic fluorphlogopite, and is created from magnesium aluminum silicate sheets.
The process includes melting manganese, metal, and aluminum, and then cooling to produce a crystal. From there it can be ground into a powder.
One of the benefits of using synthetic mica, according to companies like Lush, is that it’s purer and can achieve brighter colors because of its particle size. Organic mica is not as refined.
Synthetic mica may appear in ingredients lists under the following names:
- Fluorphlogopite
- Fluorphlogopite (MG3K[ALF2O(SIO3)3])
- Synthetic Fluorphilogopite
- Synthetic Fluorphlogopite
According to the Environmental Working Group's Skin Deep Database, neither ingredient is considered environmentally toxic or harmful to the body. However, information regarding synthetic mica is limited, and according to the Journal of Occupational and Environmental Medicine, the dust from natural mica powder has been shown to cause respiratory issues in workers.
One huge benefit of synthetic mica is that it side-steps the need for mining altogether. A 2016 investigation by the Thompson Reuters Foundation revealed that several children were killed while working in illegal mica mines in India. The use of child labor in the extraction of the mineral has led to more companies opting to use its synthetic counterpart.
How Is Mica Powder Produced?
Jimena Terraza / Getty Images
According to a 2019 report from Zion Market Research, the global mica market is expected to reach $727 million by 2025. There are two divisions of the industry: flake mica mining and sheet mica mining.
Flake mining largely serves the electronic, rubber, and construction industry. Once extracted from placer deposits and pegmatites, mica is ground and used as a pigment extender for paint, filler, and reinforcing agent. There are mines across the U.S., half of them being in North Carolina.
Sheet mica is the mineral of choice for cosmetic companies. It’s gathered through open-pit surface mining. There are mines throughout the world, including China, Brazil, and Madagascar. The beauty industry heavily relies on mica from India, which exported $71.3 million worth of the mineral in 2019.
According to the investigation from the Thompson Reuters Foundation, 70% of the mines operating in India are illegal. There are mines in Andhra, Pradesh, Maharashtra, Bihar, and Jharkhand.
Bihar and Jharkhand are part of what is sometimes referred to as the “mica belt.” It’s a region that’s home to mines that often employ children who are small enough to fit into cave openings. According to a survey from India’s National Commission for Protection of Child Rights, some of the children working in the mines are as young as six.
Work is labor-intensive, requiring miners to move down narrow tunnels that sometimes collapse. In non-commercial settings, mica is separated from the rock by hand with the use of pry bars and hammers.
Injuries and deaths are not often reported by workers or families. Many mines are located in impoverished areas, where collecting mica is the main source of income.
One of the drivers of illegal mining in India is the country's Forest Conservation Act. Many of India’s mines are located in protected forests, making it difficult for legal leases to be acquired. This has led villages to collect mica from abandoned mines in the area.
While the mica belt has received the brunt of attention from child welfare advocates, a 2018 report from Terre des hommes showed similar practices happening in Pakistan, Sudan, China, and Brazil.
Most recently, attention has been on mica mining in Madagascar. It’s reported that 10,000 children there are miners.
Is Mica Powder Sustainable?
Natural mica is not renewable, making sustainability complicated. While electronics containing mica can be recycled and reused, the same cannot be said for body washes or beauty products.
While there hasn’t been a ton of research on the environmental impact of mica mining specifically, the mining industry has been shown to be disruptive to ecosystems. Some of the potential impacts of mining include deforestation, contamination of local water, dust emissions, and increased noise pollution.
From an environmental and sustainability perspective, synthetic mica may be more friendly—and it doesn't put children at risk. However, other industries haven’t been able to utilize synthetic mica the way that the cosmetic industry has.
Although synthetic mica may be more sustainable to produce, it’s not as affordable as natural mica. It’s also manufactured in China and Japan, meaning it still needs to be exported to other parts of the globe.
Can Mica Powder Be Ethically Sourced?
With child exploitation being common, natural mica powder is not the most ethical ingredient. However, completely stopping mining may create other problems, as it is often the sole source of income for families in production areas.
Since the incidence of child labor has been exposed, more beauty companies have taken concrete steps to source the ingredient ethically. Companies like Chanel, Burts Bee's, Coty, and Sephora have become members of the Responsible Mica Initiative (RMI), an organization working to create responsible (and traceable) mica chains. Its goals are to end child labor and create work environments that follow legal mandates. Other companies have decided to rely on synthetic mica.
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