Why Moisture Resistant MDF Is The "Always Green" Choice For ...
Why Moisture Resistant MDF Is The "Always Green" Choice For ...
When you’re in the business of manufacturing furniture, cabinetry, or interior components, the quality of your raw materials is non-negotiable. One of the biggest enemies to wood-based products is moisture. It can lead to swelling, warping, and a complete breakdown of the material’s integrity, costing you time, money, and your reputation. As a factory owner with multiple production lines dedicated to wood-based panels, I’ve seen firsthand what works and what doesn’t. That’s why I want to talk about a game-changing sheet material: Moisture-Resistant MDF (MR MDF). This article will be your comprehensive guide to understanding this durable and versatile material, explaining what it is, how it differs from standard MDF, and why it should be a staple in your inventory, especially for projects in moisture-prone areas.
What Exactly is Moisture-Resistant MDF (MR MDF)?
Let’s start with the basics. Moisture-resistant MDF, often abbreviated as MR MDF, is an engineered wood product. Like standard MDF, it’s made by breaking down hardwood or softwood residuals into fine wood fibers. These fibers are then combined with wax and a special resin binder and formed into panels by applying high temperature and pressure. The key difference lies in the type of resin used in its manufacture. MR MDF uses a specially formulated, moisture-repellent resin. This is what gives the board its enhanced ability to withstand humid conditions and occasional wetness.
The result is a highly uniform and dense panel with a smooth surface that is perfect for a wide range of interior applications. It’s important to understand that this isn’t a new, untested product. It’s a reliable and proven material that we have been producing for years to meet the demands of clients in the USA, Europe, and Australia. The careful engineering process ensures that each board has a consistent density and thickness, making it a predictable and easy material to work with in a large-scale furniture manufacturing setting. This consistency is crucial for procurement officers like Mark, who need to ensure every sheet material meets a strict quality standard for production.
The specific formulation of the moisture-resistant resin significantly improves the internal bond strength of the MDF board, particularly when exposed to moisture. While standard MDF would quickly absorb moisture and swell, MR MDF is engineered to resist this absorption. This makes it an ideal choice for environments where humidity levels are high, but direct and prolonged contact with water is unlikely. It’s a cost-effective solution that provides enhanced durability without the much higher cost of fully waterproof materials.
How is Moisture-Resistant MDF Different from Standard MDF?
At first glance, a sheet of MR MDF might look similar to a sheet of standard MDF (unless it has the green dye, which we’ll discuss later). However, their performance in the presence of moisture is worlds apart. The difference is not just superficial; it’s engineered right into the core of the panel. As a manufacturer, controlling these differences is central to producing a reliable grade of MDF.
The primary distinction is the adhesive resin used. Standard MDF uses a urea-formaldehyde (UF) resin, which is effective for dry conditions but offers little protection against moisture. When UF resin gets wet, it weakens, allowing the wood fibers to absorb water, swell, and lose their structural integrity. In contrast, moisture-resistant MDF is made with a melamine-urea-formaldehyde (MUF) resin or a similar moisture-repellent adhesive. This advanced resin creates a stronger, more water-resistant bond between the wood fibers, drastically reducing the rate of water absorption.
Here’s a simple table to illustrate the key differences:
Feature Standard MDF Moisture-Resistant MDF (MR MDF) Resin Type Urea-Formaldehyde (UF) Melamine-Urea-Formaldehyde (MUF) or equivalent Performance in Humidity Prone to swelling and warping High resistance to moisture and humidity Density Standard density Often denser than standard MDF Color Typically uniform light brown Often dyed green for identification purposes Ideal Application Dry interior use (e.g., standard furniture, shelving) Humid interior use (e.g., kitchen, bathroom cabinetry) Cost Lower Moderately higherThis enhanced composition means that MR MDF is a much more durable material for use in challenging environments. For a furniture maker, this means fewer product failures and call-backs due to moisture-related damage. The slightly higher upfront cost of moisture-resistant MDF is easily justified by the longevity and superior performance it provides in its intended application. It’s a classic case of investing in the right material for the job to ensure a high-quality final product.
Is Moisture-Resistant MDF Completely Waterproof?
This is one of the most common questions we get, and it’s a critical point to clarify. Moisture-resistant MDF is not waterproof. There is a significant difference between being "resistant" and being "proof." A material that is moisture-resistant is designed to withstand exposure to high humidity and occasional splashes of water over a period of time. A waterproof material, on the other hand, is impervious to water and can be submerged for long periods without damage.
Moisture-resistant MDF will resist the penetration of moisture for a certain duration, but if it is left in direct contact with water for an extended period, it will eventually absorb moisture and swell. The special resin slows this process down dramatically compared to standard MDF, but it doesn’t stop it entirely. Think of it like a water-resistant watch versus a diver’s watch. You can wash your hands with a water-resistant watch, but you shouldn’t go swimming with it. Similarly, MR MDF is perfect for a bathroom vanity or kitchen cabinets where steam and splashes are common, but it would not be suitable for an outdoor deck or a shower enclosure.
For an application that requires a fully waterproof panel, you would need to consider materials like PVC foam board, composite panels, or marine-grade plywood. However, for the vast majority of interior applications in environments with high humidity, MR MDF provides the perfect balance of performance and cost. It offers excellent protection where it’s needed most, preventing the common issues of swelling and deterioration that plague lesser materials in humid environments.
Why is MR MDF Often Colored Green?
If you’ve handled moisture-resistant MDF, you’ve probably noticed that it’s often green. This has led to a common misconception that the green dye itself provides the moisture resistance. This is not the case. The green color is simply a dye added during manufacture for easy identification. This practice, known as using a "marker dye," helps builders, suppliers, and furniture makers quickly distinguish moisture-resistant MDF from standard MDF in a warehouse or on a job site.
This visual cue, often referred to as "always green," is an industry standard in many regions. It ensures that the correct grade of MDF is used for the intended application. Imagine a large construction project with thousands of sheets of MDF; the green color prevents a costly mix-up where a standard MDF panel might be accidentally used in a bathroom or kitchen. As a manufacturer, we add this dye purely for identification purposes. The actual protection comes from the specialized, moisture-repellent resin mixed with the wood fibers.
So, when you see a green MDF board, you can be confident it’s the moisture-resistant variant. However, it’s worth noting that not all moisture-resistant MDF is green. Some manufacturers may produce it in the standard brown color, so it’s always crucial to verify the product’s specifications with your supplier. At our factory, we adhere to the common industry practice to ensure clarity and prevent errors for our clients. We understand that for a busy procurement officer, simple visual confirmation can save valuable time and prevent mistakes.
What are the Key Benefits of Using a High-Grade MDF?
Beyond its resistance to moisture, high-quality MR MDF offers a host of other benefits that make it a superior choice for many projects. These advantages are why it has become a go-to material for discerning furniture and cabinet makers worldwide. The features that make it so popular stem from its unique manufacturing process.
Here are the key benefits:
- Exceptional Surface Finish: One of the greatest strengths of any MDF is its incredibly smooth surface. Because it’s made from fine wood fibers, it has no knots, grain, or voids like solid wood or plywood. This makes it an ideal substrate for painting, laminating, or veneering. You can achieve a flawless, glass-like smooth finish with far less preparation, saving time and labor.
- Consistency and Uniformity: As an engineered product, MDF is exceptionally consistent. Every board has the same density, thickness, and performance characteristics. This uniformity is a massive advantage in modern furniture production, where CNC machines require predictable materials for precise cutting and shaping. You won’t find the hidden flaws that can sometimes appear in natural wood.
- Durability and Strength: Moisture-resistant MDF is not only resistant to humidity but is also a very durable and strong material. It is typically denser than standard MDF and has a high internal bond strength, which means it holds screws well and resists delamination. Its stability ensures that cabinet doors won’t warp easily in humid conditions.
- Versatility: This versatile material can be used in a wide range of interior projects. From kitchen cabinets and bathroom vanities to skirting boards, window sills, and decorative paneling, its applications are extensive. The ability to use one reliable material across multiple applications simplifies inventory and purchasing.
- Cost-Effectiveness: While MR MDF costs more than standard MDF, it is significantly more affordable than solid wood or fully waterproof composite panels. It provides a high level of performance and durability for its price point, offering excellent value for projects where moisture is a concern.
These mdf offers a combination of performance and workability that is hard to beat, making it a smart investment for any quality-focused manufacturing operation.
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Where is Moisture-Resistant MDF Most Commonly Used?
The unique properties of moisture-resistant MDF make it the perfect choice for any interior space where humidity and moisture are present. Its use is not just limited to obvious wet areas; it’s also a smart upgrade for any application where ambient moisture could be a long-term issue. We see our clients use our MR MDF across a variety of demanding projects.
The most commonly used areas include:
- Kitchens: This is a prime location for moisture-resistant MDF. It is an excellent material for kitchen cabinets, carcasses, drawer fronts, and end panels. Kitchens are high-traffic areas with constant steam from cooking and potential splashes from sinks, making the enhanced moisture protection of MR MDF essential for long-lasting furniture. For an even more durable and aesthetic finish, you can source high-quality wood grain melamine MDF boards which are often built on an MR MDF core.
- Bathrooms: The bathroom is arguably the most humid environment in any building. MR MDF is perfect for use in bathroom vanities, cabinet units, mirror surrounds, and bath panels. It can handle the steam from showers and daily humidity without the swelling or deterioration you’d see with standard MDF.
- Laundry Rooms: Similar to kitchens and bathrooms, laundry rooms have high levels of moisture and humidity from washing machines and dryers. Moisture-resistant MDF is ideal for shelving, cabinetry, and work surfaces in these spaces.
- Architectural Moldings: It is also frequently used for skirting boards, architraves, and window boards, especially in basements or coastal homes where ambient moisture levels are naturally higher. Its smooth surface provides a perfect base for a crisp paint finish.
- Commercial Applications: Beyond residential use, MR MDF is a staple in commercial fit-outs for spaces like gym changing rooms, restaurant kitchens (non-food-contact surfaces), and hotel bathrooms, where durability and resistance to moisture are paramount.
Essentially, anywhere that standard MDF would be at risk from humid conditions is an ideal place to upgrade to moisture-resistant MDF.
How Does MR MDF Compare to Plywood in Humid Conditions?
This is a common debate among furniture makers: when should you use moisture-resistant MDF versus plywood? Both are excellent materials, but they have different strengths and weaknesses, especially when moisture is a factor. As a factory that produces various types of panels, including melamine-faced plywood, we have a clear perspective on this.
Plywood, particularly exterior or marine-grade plywood, is known for its structural strength and water resistance. It’s made from layers of wood veneer glued together, and its cross-grained construction gives it excellent rigidity. However, lower-grade plywood can have voids or gaps in the inner layers, and its surface is not as smooth as MDF, often requiring more prep work for a fine finish.
Moisture-resistant MDF, on the other hand, excels where a smooth, stable surface is needed. For painted cabinet doors, for example, the uniform density of MDF is far superior. It won’t show any grain, and its edges can be machined to a clean profile. While plywood is generally stronger for structural purposes (like subflooring), MR MDF often provides better aesthetic results and superior surface durability for non-structural components. In terms of moisture, while marine-grade plywood is more water-resistant, MR MDF often outperforms standard interior-grade plywood in humid environments because the entire panel is infused with moisture-repellent resin, whereas plywood’s resistance can be compromised if the edges aren’t sealed properly.
Ultimately, the choice depends on the specific application. For a cabinet carcass that needs to be strong and functional, plywood might be a good choice. But for the cabinet doors and decorative panels that require a perfect, painted finish and must resist ambient moisture, moisture-resistant MDF is often the better, more reliable option.
Do You Need to Prime Moisture-Resistant MDF Before Painting?
Yes, absolutely. This is a step you should never skip. While moisture-resistant MDF has a wonderfully smooth surface, its composition means it’s still quite porous. If you apply paint directly to the raw MDF, the board will absorb the liquid unevenly, resulting in a patchy, unprofessional finish. The edges, which are even more porous, will soak up even more paint. This is why you need to prime it.
Priming serves two crucial purposes. First, it seals the surface of the MDF, creating a uniform, non-porous base. This ensures that your topcoats of paint will apply evenly and smoothly, giving you that flawless finish you’re looking for. Second, a good quality primer improves the adhesion of the paint to the MDF, creating a more durable and long-lasting finish that is less likely to chip or peel over time.
For best results on MR MDF, you should use a solvent-based or oil-based primer, especially on the cut edges, as it provides a better seal against any potential moisture ingress. Apply at least two coats of primer, sanding lightly between coats, to achieve an optimal surface. Taking the time to prime the MDF board properly is a small investment in labor that pays huge dividends in the quality and durability of the final product. For any professional operation, this is a non-negotiable step in the finishing process.
What Should You Look for When Sourcing High-Quality MR MDF?
As a procurement officer, your biggest concern is sourcing a consistent, high-quality product. When it comes to moisture-resistant MDF, not all panels are created equal. As a manufacturer, I can tell you exactly what to look for to ensure you’re getting a premium product. Low-quality MDF can lead to production delays, product failures, and unhappy customers.
Here are the key quality indicators to inspect:
- Consistent Density and Color: A good MDF panel should have a uniform color and feel consistently dense across the entire board. Inconsistent dark patches can indicate problems in the pressing or resin distribution.
- Surface Quality: The surface should be perfectly smooth, free of fibers, bumps, or blemishes. This is crucial for lamination and painting. Run your hand over the panel to feel for imperfections.
- Core Quality: Inspect the core of the MDF by looking at the edge. It should be compact and uniform. A fluffy or layered appearance suggests poor pressing and low internal bond strength. A high-quality MDF will have a high internal bond strength, making it better for machining and screw-holding.
- Certifications: This is critical, especially for exporting to the USA and Europe. Ensure your supplier can provide certifications like CARB P2 or E1/E0 for formaldehyde emissions. This is not just a quality mark but a legal requirement in many markets. It demonstrates the manufacturer’s commitment to safety and environmental standards.
- Moisture Content: Ask the manufacturer about their process for controlling moisture content. The ideal moisture content for MDF is typically between 6-8%. Incorrect moisture levels can lead to warping or cracking later on.
- Supplier Reliability: Work with a supplier who understands your needs. Inefficient communication and shipment delays are major pain points. A good partner, like Demeter Deco, will provide clear communication, reliable lead times, and robust quality control, ensuring you get the product you need, when you need it. We pride ourselves on producing top-tier custom raw plain MDF board that meets these stringent criteria.
Why is FSC® Certification Important for Your MR MDF Supply?
In today’s market, quality isn’t just about the physical properties of the MDF; it’s also about its origin. This is where FSC® (Forest Stewardship Council®) certification becomes incredibly important. FSC® is a global, not-for-profit organization dedicated to promoting responsible management of the world’s forests.
When you purchase FSC®-certified MDF, it means the wood fibers used to manufacture the board come from forests that are managed in an environmentally appropriate, socially beneficial, and economically viable manner. For your business, this offers several key advantages:
- Market Access: Many large retailers and government contracts, particularly in North America and Europe, now require FSC®-certified materials. Using certified MDF can open doors to new, high-value markets.
- Brand Reputation: Sourcing responsibly enhances your brand’s image. It shows your customers that you are committed to sustainability, which is an increasingly important factor for consumers.
- Risk Mitigation: FSC® certification provides a guarantee that your MDF is not sourced from illegal logging or other controversial practices. It protects your supply chain and your business from reputational damage.
- Proof of Authenticity: The FSC® chain of custody system tracks the material from the forest to the final product, ensuring that any claims of sustainability are credible and verifiable.
As a manufacturer that exports globally, we understand the importance of these standards. We are committed to responsible sourcing and can provide FSC®-certified MDF to meet the requirements of our clients. Choosing a supplier who values and holds FSC® certification is a smart business decision that aligns with modern expectations for quality and corporate responsibility.
Key Takeaways
Moisture-resistant MDF is a highly versatile and reliable material that offers a perfect solution for interior projects in humid environments.
Want more information on moisture resistant mdf(de,fr,kk)? Feel free to contact us.
Post time: 08-06-Questions Regarding MDF vs MR-MDF - UK Workshop
I am having some decorative wall panels made out of MDF - just simple rectangles around 750mm x 400mm. Ideally I wished for a depth of either 12mm or 15mm. I have been advised to use 18mm instead as this will lessen the chances of the MDF "bowing" when using standard MDF.
18mm is a bit thicker than I would like but if it mitigates against any potential bowing issues, then I guess I will have to live with that. I would still like to ask however:
1) If using standard MDF, how great is the likelihood of 12mm/15mm MDF bowing?
2) Is MR-MDF much better dealing against bowing than the standard stuff? If so, then if I get 12mm/15mm MR-MDF instead of 18mm Standard MDF, can I assume that it will not bow at all at the sizes that will be painted?
The Panels will will affixed to walls so only one side & outer edges will be visible & part of the reasons I wish to use 12mm/15mm is that it would be lighter & hence less weight to bear but also that it would look better aesthetically.
A painter told me that he would prime all sides of the panels & edges but then only paint the front facing side & edges with two top coats - will just one coat of primer on the back face & then one coat primer + 2 top coats on the front face be OK without fear of bowing? The primer will probably be the Zinsser Bulls Eye 123 as I understand that is one of the best & Zinsser say only one coat is required? The two top coats will be Acrylic Eggshell.
If what the painter proposes is not a good idea (just applying a single coat of primer at the back), then can I just apply a couple of extra coats of any old paint that I might have lying around my shed & use that to sort of balance out the more costlier stuff at the front & edges? I ask that as I wish to avoid buying extra new paint & applying it the back of many panels when it will never ever been seen once affixed to the wall!!
Many Thanks!!
petermillard":125ik8ms said: I'd always recommend MR MDF over regular MDF simply because it's a much better quality board for little extra money. Assuming your walls are dry enough (easy and cheap to find out, simple moisture meter for a tenner on eBay) then a 12mm MR MDF board at the size you state, primed all round and painted on the exposed faces shouldn't bow at all, IMHO.
I make a lot of stuff from MR MDF and it is mostly primed with an off-the-shelf water-based acrylic primer/undercoat, one coat on the face, two coats on the cut edges, followed by two coats of water-based acrylic eggshell, usually applied with a foam roller, sometimes sprayed. Zinnsser BIN is a fine product, but total overkill as a general primer, again IMHO.
Out of interest, how were you planning to fix the panels to your walls? Mechanical fixings (screws, plugs) or a grab adhesive??
HTH Pete
Hi,
Thank you also! I will get one of those moisture meters from ebay as you say just to check for moisture then! It is great that you feel 12mm will not bow then - I was getting really worried about having to use the thicker & heavier 18mm stuff. Just to be sure, even though one will apply only one coat of the primer at the back with the front having a coat of primer & two coats of paint, it still will not bow then? What would you personally go with - 12mm or 15mm or in the end will it make no difference?
As you say that the MR-MDF is not that much more expensive, I will just get that then - I assume it will give a better finish/end result?
You mentioned you use water based Acrylic eggshell - I am planning to use the same & do not know much about paint finishes - I basically want something that is not reflective but has a mild sheen, tough lasting & easy to wipe clean & was told eggshell would be a great option - is it a smooth type finish or a bit rough? There are so many options like Semi Matt, Satin, Mid Sheen, Soft Sheen etc so it gets a little daunting for a novice to be able to imagine the differences. Is Eggshell the best of out these options do you feel?
Is the Johnstone's Acrylic Eggshell a good paint then & not too glossy?
As for the primer, I have read so many positive things about the Zinsser stuff that I thought I should play it safe but if you know of something else that is cheaper & just as good, please kindly let me know! Half the panels will be painted in a Brilliant White so I can use a standard White Primer as most are but the other half will be painted a very dark grey-anthracite colour & I have been told that on these, it is far better to use a darker colour Primer & I am having a hard time finding them. I have found a Zinsser 123 version of both colours & from another brand called Rustins. The Rustins stuff however recommends two coats & takes a few hours to dry at least for each coat but I understand the Zinsser stuff is much quicker? They are both similarly priced.
As for the fixing of the panels on the wall, someone else who did this & from whom I got the idea from said they used "No More Nails" & it worked out perfect for them so I was going to use something similar like the green Gripfill etc? Any you can recommend that will be strong enough?
If the grab adhesive is not a good idea, the how else would you suggest I fix them onto the wall so that no screws etc are visible otherwise it will really ruin the look! I have attached a small pic to show the sort of thing I am looking to achieve - it is the work of the fella I got the idea from & he used 18mm thick MDF:
Thank You!
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Baz":1qc5l85t said: What would you personally go with - 12mm or 15mm or in the end will it make no difference?12mm, but not much to choose between them - more a question of how much relief you want the panels to have against the wall, I think.
Is Eggshell the best of out these options do you feel?Yes.
Is the Johnstone's Acrylic Eggshell a good paint then & not too glossy?Haven't used Johnsons specifically, but no reason why it shouldn't be; why not buy a small pot and try it?
As for the primer, I have read so many positive things about the Zinsser stuff that I thought I should play it safe but if you know of something else that is cheaper & just as good, please kindly let me know!Zinder is very good but it's a more of a speciality primer/stain block really. I haven't found any difference between Leyland, Johnson or Wickes basic acrylic primer/undercoat, all decent and all about the same price.
Half the panels will be painted in a Brilliant White so I can use a standard White Primer as most are but the other half will be painted a very dark grey-anthracite colour & I have been told that on these, it is far better to use a darker colour Primer & I am having a hard time finding them. I have found a Zinsser 123 version of both colours & from another brand called Rustins. The Rustins stuff however recommends two coats & takes a few hours to dry at least for each coat but I understand the Zinsser stuff is much quicker? They are both similarly priced.Yes, a darker undercoat / primer is best for a dark colour. I have another brand of water-based grey primer, can't think what it is offhand but I'll check when I'm in the workshop later. I've been using a lot of Farrow & Ball exterior eggshell recently and it's a very nice paint, if pricey; they do a range of primer/undercoat in various shades too.
As for the fixing of the panels on the wall, someone else who did this & from whom I got the idea from said they used "No More Nails" & it worked out perfect for them so I was going to use something similar like the green Gripfill etc? Any you can recommend that will be strong enough?I prefer PinkGrip, personally, but there probably isn't much to choose between them. Similar to the trick mentioned above, I've used a hot-melt glue gun to provide quick adhesion, while the grab adhesive cures to give a long-term bond; perfectly valid points made, too, re. gluing onto a papered wall...
I have attached a small pic to show the sort of thing I am looking to achieve - it is the work of the fella I got the idea from & he used 18mm thick MDFI think I'd be more concerned with the flatness of the wall over the area than I would be with the MDF bowing!
HTH, Pete Hi All,
Many thanks for the great advice!
@Pete - Thanks for confirming Eggshell would be the best option - really gets rid of all the second guessing & doubts about all the various finishes for me! If you do manage to find out the name of the Grey Primer you use, please let me know & thanks for giving me answers to each of my points - I just hope the walls are flat after all this!
That F&B Paint is a little costly! I have read that their Eggshell finish veers towards the matt side - is this true? Do you know if they can mic up RAL for me or do they only offer their stock colours?
@Porker - I have attached a pic of my current wallpaper that has matt paint on it - should I be OK just to apply Gripfill (if I use something like that) to the back of the boards & apply directly or should I rough the wallpaper up by scorching it & if so, how much?
As for keeping the panels in place while waiting for the Gripfill to dry - I was planning to use a number of 5mm dowels (as that is the gap I want between panels) - will they work OK? I do not have that gun you mentioned & would be a little scared to nail into a freshly painted surface just in case things go wrong.
@ RobinBHM - I will do as you say get a test panel done just in case. If I have some spare paint lying around, would it be a good idea just to apply a couple of coats at the back (to even/balance out the two top coats the front side will have)? If so, I guess it will not matter if the finish is not super smooth & that nice as they will be affixed to the walls anyway or am I wrong in assuming that?
I will definitely look into getting some of that tape you mentioned - I have enclosed some images of the number of panels (mainly 750mm x 370mm) - how much tape will I need & what size/width
@HOJ - Thanks for letting me know about those fixings - they look really great but if used as standard, I fear they might make the boards might protrude out a little too much. With the recesses cut into the boards would be far more preferable but I do not have the tools to do that (nor the experience) & I do not think the painter would either but just in case, per board, how many of these fixings would be needed? - I have 24 of them at W750mm x H370mm.
My worry is that my walls are the original plaster & lathe type & the plaster between the wooden lathe runs is now quite dry, brittle & powdery if broken/disturbed so I do I take it then the best way to deal with this is to possibly use Rawl Plugs to mount the back plate securely? The product video demo shows it being screwed into a solid wooden board but if I did that on my walls, there would be no grip at all!
Any idea of what it might cost for me to get someone to router those recesses for me for the 24 boards?
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At worst, at least I now know for sure thanks to all here that something like Gripfill will work well so I have that to fall back on! May I ask, how many tubes might be needed & how much should be applied to the back of the panel - does it just have to cover the whole area or just lines of it at regular intervals? I will get the MR-MDF for sure - thank you all for guiding me towards it - just need to find place that stocks it & can cut it for me accurately!
Baz!
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Baz":2wvuvz04 said: Hi All,The other grey primer I'd used was the Rustins, and there's also a Dulux one I'd forgotten about.
Many thanks for the great advice!
@Pete - Thanks for confirming Eggshell would be the best option - really gets rid of all the second guessing & doubts about all the various finishes for me! If you do manage to find out the name of the Grey Primer you use, please let me know & thanks for giving me answers to each of my points - I just hope the walls are flat after all this!
That F&B Paint is a little costly! I have read that their Eggshell finish veers towards the matt side - is this true? Do you know if they can mic up RAL for me or do they only offer their stock colours?No, the older oil-based F&B eggshell was quite a Matt finish, but the currently available water-based eggshells are a nice mid-sheen - though as I mentioned further up, the small investment in a pot of paint to try it out could save you an expensive mistake, especially where personal preferences come into play. And they do stock colours only - though they do a *lot* of stock colours, and there are several very dark greys that may be suitable.
Good luck - let us know how it works out.
Pete Hi All,
Was looking at the Button Fix website & it stated that they can, in some cases be mounted/attached in different ways to different materials such as plaster board & the type of fixings one can use - as i am not too technical & understanding of some terms, I wonder if you might clarify for me.
1) They state in some cases the button fix can be glued/bonded instead of screwed in - is that an option for my situation & will something like Gripfill do?
2) For Plasterboard, they state that one can use some "RAWL M5" Fixings - is this an option?
3) Not sure if I understand this correctly, but they seem to state that one can even just fix the buttons on directly on the wall (without the plastic guide?) & affix them with some "RAWL 4ALL" fixings? So, one just screws the buttons to the wall & the puts the plastic guide to the back of the panel (instead of the wall) & affixes it that way?
There seem to be two types of RAWL M5 Plugs - which would be better?
4) To make the "Stepped Recess" they recommend using their tool but I do not have it, nor the skills to use one but I do have access to the Forstner drill bits too make them but again, skill level might be a problem - is it something novice can do without too much to go wrong?
Forgive my ignorance & silly questions if any but I ask as I am seriously considering this option as recommended!
Many Kind Thanks!
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